A small dot in the vast Pacific Ocean, Pitcairn Island is best known for its links to Fletcher Christian, Captain William Bligh and the mutiny aboard the HMS Bounty.

But the Pitkerners are also doing their best to move with the times, to grow their dwindling population, and attract more people, in order to survive.

Journalists Andrea Vance and Iain McGregor visited the tiny island.


The paradise island where no-one wants to live.


It was this headline that attracted Hanna Johansson to Pitcairn Island.

She arrived in June, with her husband Daniel, 44, and sons Erik, 12, and seven-year-old Klas.

Klas, Hanna, Erik and Daniel Johansson arrived on Pitcairn Island in June.

Klas, Hanna, Erik and Daniel Johansson arrived on Pitcairn Island in June.

“We have looked for a place to go, and another life, for a long time,” she said. “We checked the whole world, Africa, South Africa, Carribean, Asia.

“And then I was reading this news article on the internet -  about the paradise island that no-one wants to live on. 

"And the harder it is to get there, [the more] you really want it.”

Hanna, 41, an illustrator, and Daniel, a property manager, left behind their lives in the Swedish capital, Stockholm. She runs her own consultancy.


I can work wherever in the whole world, as long as I have internet.


They were searching for a different way of living. “A life that is more based on the basics.  

“In Stockholm, everything is based on doing something for someone else to look at.

“You have the house, you see how much you earned and you have the car and you have the career or whatever.”

Adamstown, the capital of the Pitcairn Islands, is its only settlement.

Adamstown, the capital of the Pitcairn Islands, is its only settlement.

The family would spend six months trying out life on the island, a rock in the vast Pacific Ocean, more than 15,000km from Sweden. If they like it, they may return for good.

Their arrival was eagerly anticipated in Adamstown, the island's tiny capital. A letter from Johansson, and snapshots of their family, was pinned to the noticeboard. 

The move was recorded in the island's council minutes, and welcomed in a letter from Governor Laura Clarke, who is also Britain's High Commissioner to New Zealand, based in Wellington.

In the days after their arrival they were inundated with islanders bringing them cakes and fresh, local fruit.

“For now it’s like a vacation, but we have to integrate into the community,”  Johansson said.

But how do you integrate into a society in one of the most isolated places on earth?

Pitcairn's population has been dwindling for years, with fewer than 50 islanders remaining.

Previous appeals to settlers have gone unanswered, even with offers of free land. A strategy to raise the population to 80 by 2016 was scaled back.

Charlene Warren-Peu and her youngest daughter Cushana.

Charlene Warren-Peu and her youngest daughter Cushana.

“It's lovely to see them coming in,” said Charlene Warren-Peu, who will take over as the first female mayor in January. “I hope they make Pitcairn their home.”

It's not easy to make the move to this wave-lashed volcanic rock, halfway between New Zealand and Chile.

The island's 10 councillors and immigration officer must first approve an application, which costs $500.

An interview with the Auckland-based deputy governor Robin Shackell follows, and then the governor must make the final decision.

Settlers must demonstrate they have at least $NZ30,000 to support themselves, and the means to build a home. After two years on the island, they'll be granted permanent residency.

“It's not just any place that you rock up to. You have to understand the isolation,” Warren-Peu explained.

Ten-year-old Cushana Warren-Peu visits the island’s recycling facility.

Ten-year-old Cushana Warren-Peu visits the island’s recycling facility.

“If you want to make it work, you can. You have to come with an open mind, be positive and get stuck in with the community.”

Simon Young, from Yorkshire, England, says he's still trying to figure out the island after making it home 20 years ago.

“It's hard work, it is a hard life and you have just got to be willing to make it work.

“It's incredibly difficult - but not in a bad way. You can't be normal and live on Pitcairn. It is not a normal environment, it's so alien you have to have some peculiarities to be enjoying it.

“You have got to embrace a new culture, and find new friends and family and that can be hard in a community of only 50 people.”

An eighth generation descendant of the Bounty mutineers, Cushana Warren-Peu is one of seven children on the island.

Cushana Warren-Peu is one of seven children on the island.

The arrival of Erik and Klas bring the island's population of children to seven. Warren-Peu's daughter, Cushana is 10.

Earlier this year, New Zealander Darcy Harding moved to Pitcairn. He was crew on the MV Claymore, the island’s former supply ship, when he met his now wife Ariel Brown. 

They have two young children, and Harding is designing and building their home.

Pulau School, the only one on the island, teaches children aged five to 13.

Pulau School, the only one on the island, teaches children aged five to 13.

Children are taught the New Zealand curriculum at the local Pulau School, but only until age 13, a barrier for migrants and diaspora who don't want to send their teenagers away.

But Pitcairn desperately needs new blood, with many islanders past retirement age.

The islanders remain hopeful they can attract people who are looking for a dramatic lifestyle change, and persuade scattered islanders to return home.

Warren-Peu’s sons Jayden, 20, and Kimiora, 18, returned from New Zealand earlier this year, and have taken on their share of the island's workload.

She and husband Vaine Peu, who moved from Rarotonga more than 20 years ago, have four other children: Ralph, 22, and Torika, 17, both live away from home.

“[Jayden and Kimiora] planted their roots a bit deep,” Warren-Peu said. “I don't think they'll leave now.


But, of course, they'll need to find a partner to stay. There is nobody here, so they will have to explore outside.


Longboats at The Landing, the only way to access Pitcairn.

Longboats at The Landing, the only way to access Pitcairn.

Most of the island’s inhabitants can trace their ancestry back to Fletcher Christian’s mutineers.

Eight of the HMS Bounty crew rebelled against Captain William Bligh and found refuge on the island. They brought six Polynesian men and 12 women with them.

Heather Menzies is a seventh generation descendant of Christian and his wife Mauatua, or Maimiti.

After Fletcher’s death Mauatua took up with midshipman Edward ‘Ned’ Young, and had three children.

Menzies’ husband, Kerry Young, is a direct descendant of their eldest child.

The couple came to visit family almost 15 years ago. “Then we thought, hmm…” Menzies laughs, “why don't we stay a little longer?

Pitcairn’s road network is mainly unpaved with thick, red mud.

Pitcairn’s road network is mainly unpaved with thick, red mud.

“A lot of people talk about going back to their roots and going home, but we were in a position to do something about it, and so we did.

“So we disentangled ourselves from the world, which takes a little bit of time, and here we are, so.”

In 2005, they moved their lives from Auckland and built Big Flower, their home on the steep, overgrown hillside that rises above Adamstown.

“We’ve established a life here and this is it for us,” she said.

“I think it has been a pragmatic, realistic, feet-on-the-ground journey... anybody that comes to an island in the middle of the South Pacific with minimal infrastructure… it is not for the faint-hearted and it’s a labour-intensive environment as well.

“But simultaneously, it is incredibly rewarding.”

Heather Menzies and Simon Young at work in the Government offices.

Heather Menzies and Simon Young at work in the Government offices.

Menzies, 62, worked in community mental health and the couple thought they’d bring valuable skills to the island.

She now has one of its most crucial jobs: tourism co-ordinator.

Tourism development represents Pitcairn’s only real opportunity of significant growth - and of attracting new migrants.

Britain pumps around $6 million a year, in budgetary aid, which pays for the electricity supply, schooling, policing and the supply ship. Most islanders depend on government jobs.

Many visitors are lured by the island’s origin story, immortalised by Hollywood in four blockbuster movies.

Only a few salvaged artefacts from the HMS Bounty remain on the island.

Only a few salvaged artefacts from the HMS Bounty remain on the island.

“Pitcairn in a way is lucky,” mayor Shawn Christian, 44, said. “We have got, of course, the whole saga of the mutiny on the Bounty, which is the culture of Pitcairn.

“But rather than just picking one item - which is Bounty related - we are looking at every possibility that we can tap into for tourism.”

But the remoteness, rugged and unique ecology make it a high-value tourist destination.

The grave of John Adams, the last survivor of the Bounty mutineers who settled on Pitcairn Island in January 1790.

The grave of John Adams, the last survivor of the Bounty mutineers who settled on Pitcairn Island in January 1790.

“There are actually a number of activities that we can play off and emphasise… we have got endemic birds and plants. Flora and fauna,” Christian said.

“There is that whole cultural aspect, the language, the food, the people. So, the tourism industry has been slowly developing and developing.”

Although far-flung, it is close to a trans-Pacific cruise route and the number of visits has steadily been increasing, from four in 2001, 14 in 2014 and a predicted 19 in the coming season.

The South Pacific mixed cargo and passenger vessel Aranui 5 has also added Pitcairn to its itinerary.

Unspoiled waters and the chase to see whales and other marine life also attract eco-tourists. In 2016, the island was declared a marine reserve, at 834,000 sq km, the world’s third largest.

The world’s third largest marine sanctuary lies in the island group’s waters.

The world’s third largest marine sanctuary lies in the island group’s waters.

The designation also includes the three other uninhabited islands in the group: Ducie, Oeno and Henderson, which is also a Unesco World Heritage site.

And in April, it was named one of only nine dark sky sanctuaries in the world.  Covering 1.3 million sq km of crystal-clear night skies, it was named Mata Ki te Rangi, or Eyes to the Sky.

There are only seven street lights, and the island’s generator cuts out at 10pm, so anti-pollution bylaws were easy to implement.

Pitkerners were trained as star guides and in July they welcomed astro-tourists and academics chasing a solar eclipse, from Europe, the US, Hong Kong and New Zealand. In August, Time magazine nominated it in their Top 100 places to visit.

“Coming to Pitcairn is the closest people will ever come to getting off the grid,” Menzies said.

“People are incredibly interested… [it’s] a chance to experience a community that lives in isolation and yet simultaneously is incredibly connected so you can still come here and send your photos to your family and get a sense of what it is like to be part of a living history.”

Tourists are brought first to the square, to have their passports stamped by the local police officer. Constable Kay-Anna Lawson is a New Zealand police officer seconded to the island. She was born in the Scottish Outer Hebrides.

She doles out mosquito repellent, advice - and the required licence to drive quad bikes on the island.

Adamstown centres on The Square, home to the community hall.

Adamstown centres on The Square, home to the community hall.

There are no hotels. Visitors must lodge with locals in one of 12 homestays, which also supplement the islanders’ income.

“They range from a private home, where you could just rent the whole place out right through to a homestay where you can have all your meals and laundry and everything catered to,” Menzies said.

“We have those advertised on our website and it is flourishing, you know. People do well through that.”

There are breathtaking hikes, including an eco-walk, to explore, views from Christian’s cave, where he went to brood in times of upheaval, and divers can comb over what’s left of the wreck of the Bounty and the SS Cornwallis.

Spotting Mrs T, the island’s lonely, ancient Galapagos tortoise, is another thrill.

St Paul’s Pool is a picturesque tidal pool on the east of the island.

St Paul’s Pool is a picturesque tidal pool on the east of the island.

For the more adventurous, Down Rope is a steep cliff at the bottom of which is the island’s only sandy beach. St Paul’s Pool is a natural tidal pool with crystal waters and crashing waves - perfect for swimming when sea conditions allow.

Beware the dangers - evoked in the island’s placenames where residents have suffered accidents: Where Dan Fall; Where Minnie Off, Where Tom Off and a point called Oh Dear.

A cargo supply ship is the islanders lifeline.

A cargo supply ship is the islanders lifeline.

Meralda Warren, also a seventh generation descendant, says tourism has been a huge boost - but the island needs more workers if it is to flourish.

“We have had some horrendous busy times in the last couple of years. This year especially we have had more cruise ships than we had for ages.

“I consider myself an old fart - although I am just reaching 60 - but we’ve noticed a big difference as we get older and we can't get things done.


It is trying to juggle everything - trying to keep the island tidy and trying to offload our cargo. So, having the young people come in, it has made a difference.


Islanders supplement their income by selling curios and souvenirs to tourists, and fish, fruit and other fresh produce to passing vessels.

“Pretty much everyone on the island does some kind of craft,” Menzies said. “There are all kinds of artisans, wooden carvings, t-shirts, caps, maps, jewellery, handmade soap, weaving that’s been in place for generations.

“Pitkerners have been trading with cruise ships and passengers forever, it is part of their heritage and culture. We are just expanding it into a sort of modern space now.

Heather Menzies is charged with boosting tourism on the island.

Heather Menzies is charged with boosting tourism on the island.

The islanders don’t just trade in keepsakes. Up until 15 years ago, Pitcairn paid its way through the sale of stamps, but that income dwindled as the market declined.

Pitkerners were forced to develop other cottage industries - and honey production has proved the most successful.

The isolation means disease-free bees can only collect pollen from the island’s organic blooms. The resulting honey is rich, tropical-tasting and the purest in the world.

The 250g jars sell for $15. The honey, and frangipani scent have also been added to homemade soap.

Until recently, the products were only shipped four times a year, but more regular rotations have just been introduced.

“Basically, there was a boat rotation every three months, which is very hard in terms of contact with the wider world, access to medical care and for tourism,” Governor Laura Clarke said.

“Now having this more frequent service - which will generally go every two weeks is good news for the islanders.

“They can send their products away more frequently. It is also easier to get building materials onto the island… we are using the shipping service to put on more offers and tours for tourists.


It is never going to be self-sustaining economy-wise but we have made a lot of progress on lots of fronts.


A fledgling coffee industry is also in its infancy, with Jayden and Kimiora Warren-Peu establishing a plantation. The island’s climate and topography make it an ideal place to grow beans.

“I really hope that gets off the ground,” Clarke said. “I've suggested that we get some brilliant coffee expert over to spend some time with them.”

Fetuei jewellery, made from the spines of purple sea urchin, is also in demand.

Meralda Warren, and her mother Mavis, 83, sell artworks, weaving and food produce.

“We deal with many, many clients - and it is not just New Zealand, Australia and the States - we deal with Albania, Israel and Dubai,” she said.

“Quite a few of us have our own websites and we sell our stuff online.  We produce small-scale dried fruits. I make soap, coconuts into oil, jewellery and a lot of people have their carvings and their weavings. 


Tourism isn't the only thing that is keeping Pitcairn going. It is what we are passing through our little post office. It's what keeps the economy going here.


Saturday church services are a well-attended gathering.

Saturday church services are a well-attended gathering.

An economic review, commissioned by the British Government and published in January 2014, painted a gloomy picture of the island’s future.

“Pitcairn is extremely isolated, thus impacting access to markets and wider participation in the international economy. Land on Pitcairn is rugged and not suited to larger-scale commercial agriculture production… Human resources are limited, a function of a small and aging population base... 

“In reality, no-one will migrate to Pitcairn Islands for purely economic reasons as there are limited government jobs, a lack of private sector employment, as well as considerable competition for the tourism dollar,” the report said.

The Seventh-day Adventist church is the only organised form of religion on Pitcairn.

The Seventh-day Adventist church is the only organised form of religion on Pitcairn.

“Once young people move to New Zealand for education their ambitions increase and they rarely return. Job opportunities on Pitcairn Island are few, and this along with the infrequent and expensive transport makes it difficult to return on a regular or permanent basis. This creates a barrier to workforce planning to cater to any potential economic development.”

Clarke, who has just returned from her second visit to Pitcairn, doesn’t agree.

“I am not writing if off at all. People are always saying it is going to cease to function and yes, there is an ageing population, but people do keep moving back. I feel quite optimistic, I think we will be able to get more people to move there.

“But I also think it might just continue as an island with quite a small population... the Pitkerners have survived against the odds since 1790… it is in our interests to really support it, to make a go of it so it can thrive into the future.


The world would be much poorer without it.


Simon Young is equally positive. “Pitcairn will always survive. You can go back to books written 50 years ago and they are talking [about] the doom and gloom of the last generation.

“It is never true because it never takes account of the changing culture. And that's what's happening here today.”

Menzies says the island is evolving. “Pitcairn is on the cusp of change. It’s an amazing time to be living here.”

Pitcairn’s New Zealand-made longboats need a minimum crew of three.

Pitcairn’s New Zealand-made longboats need a minimum crew of three.

Five months into their stay, the Johanssons are “doing very well”. The boys are in school and learning English, and their father has joined the island’s construction crew.

They are still making up their minds about a permanent move.

Klas Johansson, seven, has been learning English while living on Pitcairn this year.

Klas Johansson, seven, has been learning English while living on Pitcairn this year.

“We haven’t decided yet,” Johansson said. “It’s a big decision and must be thought through carefully, especially for the children.

“But, we really enjoy it here… Sometimes, we talk about what we lack, sometimes it is to go to the mall at 10pm on a Wednesday, but not really.

“You miss what you do not have wherever you are in the world… you are better at taking care of what you have.

“It also includes friends. You have what you have here and you have to take care of it and them.” 

The family will travel home to Sweden to celebrate Christmas. 

“I think it’s wise to wait to make a decision whether to move to Pitcairn permanently until we are at home in our ordinary life in Sweden, to remind ourselves of what it was we wanted to get away from.”


Words: Andrea Vance

Visuals: Iain McGregor

Design & layout: Aaron Wood

Editor: Warwick Rasmussen