Wellington & Wairarapa

Aotearoa's stairway to heaven

At first glance, the Escarpment Track only looks suitable for mountain goats. This walking track transforms the steep terrain between Paekākāriki to Pukerua Bay into one of the North Island's best short walks. It involves cliffs, steep tracks, swing bridges, and most of it doesn’t have safety barriers. There are almost 500 steps, so you need to be fit. But if you're willing to proceed along the 9.1km trail, you'll be richly rewarded with stunning views over the Kāpiti Coast. Read more

More brilliant Wellington wanders

Beyond the compact and wonderfully walkable inner city, Wellington throws down a diverse selection of walking tracks for both weekend warriors and hardcore trekkers. There are hundreds of walks to choose from in the area, between the city, harbour and coast. Some of our favourites include the flat and easy Red Rocks Coastal Track taking in the rugged south coast, the challenging but beautiful Skyline Walkway along Wellington’s exposed ridge tops and the must-do Mount Victoria Lookout Walk to soak in spectacular views of the city. Read more

How to dress like a Wellingtonian

Arguably more so than anywhere else in the country, Wellington celebrates individuality in style. It’s the city where not being cool makes you even cooler, and when it comes to shopping, Wellingtonians can’t get enough of it. The shopping here is worth the trip alone. From the vintage stores that line Cuba Street to the intimate boutiques that you’ll find nestled in between, the capital really is the only place you need to go for complete retail therapy or indulgence. Read more

Wellington's coolest street

Unlike other cities, which have an obvious “main street”, in Wellington, there have always been several stretches of asphalt vying for the title. There’s Cuba Street, the beloved bohemian quarter. There’s Courtenay Place, the nightlife district. There’s Lambton Quay, the beating business heart. But in recent years, another thoroughfare has emerged as the capital’s most exciting street. Ghuznee Street has everything you could want in one handy strip – great food, drinks, street art, shopping, and even a New York-style boutique hotel. Read more

A taonga for all New Zealanders

Pūkaha National Wildlife Centre is perhaps best known as the birthplace of the first white kiwi to be hatched in captivity. But Manukura's family members aren’t the only taonga to be found at the sanctuary located 30 kilometres north of Masterton – the whole place is one. The 942-hectare reserve is the last significant remnant of what was once a great forest known to local Māori as Te Tapere nui o Whatonga. On a guided tour you can learn about the tangata whenua, meet a pair of tuatara thought to be up to 80 years old and feed giant longfin eels. Read more

For spectacular coastal views

At 23 metres high, Castlepoint is the tallest lighthouse in the North Island, theatrically positioned 52 metres above the sea on a rugged and weathered rocky headland on the Wairarapa coast. Just an hour's drive from Masterton, it's easily reached by a short stroll along a boardwalk, and is a gift to the photographer — plus anyone else who enjoys a stunning view. You might also see fur seals, as well as many sorts of seabird. There's a sheltered lagoon suitable for swimming at the base of the headland, and a long sandy beach in front of the little Castlepoint settlement. Read more

The best times to be in Wellington and Wairarapa

From the southern hemisphere’s biggest indigenous film festival to a midwinter yuletide carnival, Wellington and Wairarapa have no shortage of world-class events. The only dilemma is choosing which spectacle to plan your trip around. This year, The World of WearableArt is heading back to combine the mediums of fashion, art, design and costume; Toast Martinborough will celebrate its 30th year spotlighting local food and wine; plus inventive burgers and immersive dining pop-ups will be flowing at our biggest culinary festival, Wellington On a Plate. Read more

A Willy Wonka experience

Wellington Chocolate Factory is a gem of a craft chocolate factory, hidden down a laneway in the central city. It's New Zealand’s first certified organic bean-to-bar chocolate factory, which means all of their products are made from scratch. Come hungry – there is plenty of chocolate to be sampled on the tasting tour. Guests are welcomed with super-rich hot chocolate, and it's not long before you'll be helping yourself to cookies and trying different types of chocolate. Read more

The mansion where the royals stay

You don’t have to be a royal to visit Government House in Wellington. We’re all welcome at the official residence of the Governor-General. Possibly one of the capital’s best-kept secrets is that there are public tours of the stately mansion you can take, for free. These two-hour guided tours offer a fascinating glimpse into the history of the house, which was built in 1910, and its occupants over the years. But even if you’re not much of a history buff, it’s also just a great opportunity to have a nosey around a grand old building that is filled with treasures. Read more

Journey to Middle-earth

It's not often that a film location looks better in real life than on screen, but the Putangirua Pinnacles is one such location. Over 120,000 years, an ancient stream has eroded the valley. While the softer rock washed away, the harder parts remained, creating a series of stunning "hoodoos", also known as fairy chimneys or earth pyramids. Each of the towering pillars has its own unique form, making it an open-air art gallery thousands of years in the making. Read more

Wairarapa’s spectacular coastal road

Further along the coast is Ngāwī, a fishing village claimed to be home to more bulldozers per head of population than anywhere in the world. What's remarkable about the landscape is there are almost no trees in the arid hills looming over the coastline. After a walk among the bulldozers, continue your drive around the coast (seal spotting on the way) until you reach the Cape Palliser Lighthouse; the windswept southernmost point of the North Island. You'll have a steep but rewarding 258-step climb up to the lighthouse where you can even spot the South Island on a clear day. Read more

Wellington's secret cherry blossom garden

Many people don’t know there’s a place in New Zealand that would easily rival some of Japan’s famed cherry blossom spots. Aston Norwood Gardens is thought to boast the largest collection of the awanui cherry tree in Aotearoa. In spring, the gardens are transformed into a frothy, candyfloss-hued wonderland as more than 300 show-stopping trees bloom. It is a beautiful place to visit at any time of year, but the Blossom Valley festival lets you wander through the gardens, admiring the trees in bloom. There are also after-dark sessions where you can walk beneath the glowing canopy of blossoms. Read more

NZ's version of Alcatraz, with wildlife

Located at the centre of Wellington Harbour, Matiu/Somes Island has a 1000-year history. It got especially busy after the colonists arrived: first as a lighthouse site, and subsequently as quarantine stations for both people and animals, a defence post and an internment camp. Now it's run by the Department of Conservation as a pest-free scientific and historic reserve, home to kākāriki, tuatara, giant wētā and little blue penguins/kororā, which you might see if you make the 25-minute ferry trip. Read more

New Zealand's own Garden of Eden

One of the best places to encounter rare native species in the wild is Kāpiti Island. This wonderland of wildlife is a protected predator-free nature reserve sitting off Paraparaumu Beach. There are two main options for exploring the island. A day trip, or you can overnight with Kāpiti Island Nature Tours, which has a lodge and glamping tents. Nobody can land on the island without a permit and there are limits on the number of people who can visit each day. There are a couple of tracks to choose from; an hour circuit around the shelter or a return journey to the island's peak. In the jungle-like paradise you'll soon spot kākā, takahē and birds swooping from every direction. Read more

The magnificent hidden rail trail

Once one of the country's steepest railroads, climbing 265 metres over 4 kilometres, the Remutaka Rail Trail is now a walking and cycle trail that's now used by about 30,000 people each year. Adventure company Wildfinder has a base at the start of the trail in Kaitoke. This is the best place to start, as most of the ride ends up being downhill. Along the route, there are many places to stop with boards telling the tales of the railway. The trail also takes you through several tunnels and crosses the valley using a magnificent 90-metre swing bridge. Read more

Walk with the birds

The biggest remnant of lowland swamp forest left on the Kāpiti Coast, Ngā Manu Nature Reserve’s 14 hectares have been lovingly preserved since 1974. It appeals to all ages, especially those who like to get close to some of our most personable birds. Kākāriki, kāka, kea, kiwi: they are all right there, especially if you do the guided Feed-Out Tour. You’ll enter the enclosures and watch the birds come eagerly to claim their treats, unperturbed by your presence. Be sure to climb the tower beside the lake for its splendid views. Read more

A secret side of Wellington

There is a side of Wellington you probably haven’t seen — and the best way to experience it is via helicopter with GCH Aviation. The trip starts on Wellington’s waterfront before lifting over the CBD, passing Parliament and getting an aerial view of The Beehive. Heading towards the remote southern coast you'll pass Makara Wind Farm for a look at the 62 giant turbines. A few minutes later, you’re above the Cook Strait, gazing at Wellington’s secret southern coast, home to many seals. The chopper then makes its way towards Wellington Airport, before crossing back to the city past Mount Victoria.

A Kiwi-made rocket ride

Fly by Wire is perhaps the most insane, adrenaline-fuelled ride that you've never heard of. The ride is hard to describe, because there is nothing like it on the planet. It's perhaps best thought of as a rocket, meets an air force jet — all connected to a wire. The plane, without wings and a large engine on the back, is suspended between a valley by a network of wires. You lie down on the aircraft, get strapped in, then off you go. It steers much like a bike, and you're given instructions on how to get maximum speed. Read more

The train ride that costs just $1

If you head to the town of Masterton you’ll find the perfect place to spend your pocket money. In the centre of town is Queen Elizabeth Park, home to an epic playground and miniature railway which runs around an island in the lake. The majority of rides are done by a shiny red diesel-electric locomotive, also known as “Doug”. But if you’re very lucky, you might visit when the steam engine locomotive “Atlantic” is running. One dollar gets you three whirls around the track, travelling at an unexpectedly thrilling 15kph – making it the fastest miniature train in the country. There’s even a 38-metre-long tunnel where screaming is compulsory. Read more

A whirlwind trip to Porirua

Just 20 minutes north of Wellington, Porirua is probably most famous for being home to the Whittakers chocolate factory since 1969. However, Porirua is also home to plenty of beautiful walking tracks, outdoor activities, neat cafés and the renowned Pātaka Art + Museum. Visit the pocket-sized Local Authority for coffee that packs a punch, grab some delicious Mediterranean-inspired fare at The Little Goat, and hit the Whitireia Park loop walk for stunning coastal views over Porirua Harbour. Read more

A taste of Aotearoa

Monique Fiso worked at top restaurants across the globe before returning to the capital to launch modern Māori restaurant Hiakai. The restaurant has since been praised by Time Magazine and National Geographic for helping to shape and define Māori cuisine and bring native ingredients into the spotlight. Some of her current flavour innovations include manono (a native shrub) rum, and harakeke (flax) icecream. She’s also brought te ao Māori concepts of sharing food into the restaurant: the current menu theme incorporates sharing dishes to emulate the big feasts of marae gatherings. Read more

Dishes worth travelling for

The salted caramel cookie from Leeds Street Bakery is a Wellington icon. The bakery, found in the capital’s foodie street, Hannahs Laneway, bakes up to 200 of the big, chewy, salty-sweet cookies a day. The unassuming Soul Shack serves American soul food out of its shop on Victoria Street. Out of a small but nonetheless tantalising menu, the Nashville-style buttermilk fried wings are the flagship item, with spice levels ranging from zero to four. Rams Crazy Dumplings Restaurant is a tiny eatery that you’d be forgiven for strolling right past on Cuba Street, but any local knows that it’s home to the best dumplings in the capital.

A world-class foodie laneway

With authentic Naples-style pizza, a chocolate factory, a fine-dining restaurant, a peanut butter café, and one of the best bars in the city, Hannahs Laneway (also known as Leeds Street) is a shrine to delicious treats, and those who choose to worship will be richly rewarded. You'd be hard-pressed to find such a vibrant collection of eateries in such a small space anywhere else in the country. Read more

Where to find the freshest craft beers

Wellington has the power to turn beer sceptics into believers. The capital's craft revolution has spawned such a diverse range of breweries and beer styles that there’s something to suit every taste – even if you have no idea how to tell your lager from your ale. It helps that you can actually see where the magic happens, with several breweries doubling as drinking establishments. Some brew pubs are housed in unexpected spots, like old petrol stations and former factories, which only adds to the experience. Read more

The best bars in Wellington

You won’t go thirsty in Wellington, that’s for sure. The compact nature of the capital means you don’t have far to go to find some of the best eclectic bars and laid-back speakeasies in the country. Top places for a tipple include Crumpet, a standout for its friendliest staff. Hawthorn Lounge is a 1920s-inspired speakeasy known for its creative libations. The Library is a cosy book-lined bar with great cocktails and booths oozing old-world charm. R Bar is a little gem of a pirate-themed speakeasy bar where rum-based cocktails are order of the day. Read more

More than just a supermarket

With its plethora of places to eat, most visitors to Wellington wouldn’t dream of stepping foot inside a supermarket. But Moore Wilson’s couldn’t be further from your average aisle-trawling experience. Here you'll find just about everything food-related under one roof. It might be famous for hangover-curing orange juice, but venture further inside and you'll discover a showroom for decadent baked goods and supersized wheels of cheese. You’ll also find local coffee, a huge range of wines and craft beers, plus a homeware section with its own toy shop. If you’re feeling peckish there's sushi and hot meals to go. Read more

Cafés of the Kāpiti Coast

Tour the coast of the lower North Island and you’ll find elevated cafe cuisine and plenty of beachy vibes. Point the car in the direction of Ōtaki Beach and you’ll reach the small but mighty Ōtaki Kitchen where classical French-trained chef Kamal Rahtore does interesting and tasty things with local produce. Head to Hola Bar & Grill in Paraparaumu where you can sip cocktails and sample Mexican-inspired street food with views across Kāpiti Island. Across the road from Waikanae Beach is the casual but cool Longbeach Cafe & Tavern where pizzas are the star of the show. Read more

Where to brunch

If you find yourself in capital in need of brunch, you might just experience the greatest meal of your week. There's no better spot to enjoy eggs and coffee, and Wellington’s coastal location, than at Maranui Café. Cuba Street's Floriditas has been a local favourite for 17 years, and no matter what time of the day you visit, you can’t go past the fish pie. Egmont Street Eatery is another failsafe dining destination, while August is a newish eatery on Taranaki Street where the only problem you'll face is choosing what to order. Read more

Restaurants for a special occasion

Wellington is serious about its food. But it’s certainly not all white tablecloths and haughty sommeliers – you’ll find the capital’s top dining spots are as vibrant and eclectic as the city itself. Some of the best spots to book for a special occasion include Shepherd, a restaurant known for its playful take on fine-dining, where you can sample savoury custard by night and truffled mushrooms on toast the next morning. On lower Cuba Street, Highwater is a stylish all-day eatery that looks like something straight out of Melbourne. Logan Brown lives up to its reputation as an undisputed icon of the food scene. The pāua ravioli is one to tick off your culinary bucket list. Read more

The best platter in New Zealand

Poppies is one of more than 20 wineries within walking or cycling distance of the Martinborough village. Every cellar door has something special to offer, but if it’s a winery lunch you’re after, Poppies is hard to beat – they’re almost as famous for their platters as they are for their exquisite wines. The platters are so much more than your standard boards of meat, cheese and crackers. Showstoppers include the crispy pork belly, while delicious dips like beetroot hummus and Indian relish will have you coming back for seconds. Read more

A classic for a wine weekend

Martinborough is the closest thing New Zealand has to a European-style wine village. Opened in 1882, the historic Martinborough Hotel has had some updates over the years, but it’s still big on old-school charm. You can stay in the original building, but there are also suites in the garden, as well as a handful of rooms and suites in a neighbouring building. Union Square, on the ground floor of the hotel, has become an institution in its own right. The all-day bistro and bar serves up hearty, country fare with a French influence, with a wine list so extensive you could technically forgo the wineries and just park up here for the weekend. Read more

A feast for the eyes and the stomach

QT Wellington is something of a legend in the capital’s hotel scene. It used to sit on the same spot where you’ll now find Te Papa. Previously known as the Museum Art Hotel, it was sold in 2015 and given a $12 million makeover, before reopening as New Zealand’s first QT hotel. The lobby lounge is filled with eye-popping artworks, while other facilities include a gym, sauna, and an indoor swimming pool. Hippopotamus isn’t your standard hotel restaurant. It has become synonymous with fine dining in the capital and should be on your list, whether you’re staying at the hotel or not. Read more

Bohemian style in the bush

One of the country's coolest baches is tucked away in dense bush overlooking Wellington Harbour. Just 10 minutes from the airport on the Miramar Peninsula, it's a steep five-minute walk to the bright blue Boho Bach. The house is full of bohemian brilliance but the highlight is a large outdoor bath overlooking the harbour. Big enough for two, it's possibly the most relaxing little spot in all of Wellington. While soaking, you're bound to be visited by a few of the friendly locals: tui, fantails and even woodpigeons. Read more

Watch wild landings from bed

At Rydges Wellington Airport, you can watch pilots attempt to get their aircraft to land on the city’s relatively short runway — from the comfort of bed. The hotel is the first in New Zealand that is fully connected to a terminal. If you're interested in plane spotting, request a room with a runway view. There are two excellent restaurants on-site. Whiskey Lima Golf is a large all-day eatery with views of the area where international jets typically park, and Peloton is a great place to relax away from the crowds. Read more

Luxury on a hilltop

Sitting on a hilltop high above the Wairarapa is Moonlight Peak, a luxury off-grid solar-powered suite. This adults-only escape is for those who love seclusion, and the adventure starts before you even get there. You'll be met by a host, where you'll jump in a 4WD to make the steep ascent up a winding farm track to the top of a hill. After being dropped off, you won't see anybody, and you won't be able to leave. But you'll have everything you need, including a full kitchen, a hot tub, and dressing gowns, and a view to enjoy. Read more

Wellington's New York-style escape

The capital's newest hotel has an edgy New York industrial vibe – it feels like you could be in the Big Apple. The Intrepid Hotel is co-owned by Alex Cassels and Sean Golding, who is behind the city's craft beer bar Golding's Free Dive and neighbouring restaurant Shepherd. The hotel has 18 luxury industrial-style rooms, stripped back to their raw brick beauty while sizeable swing lamps hover over the bed. It is ideally located for those who want to eat out and shop while visiting the capital, and the building is also home to The Puffin, a chic bar which specialises in organic wine. Read more

Four more inner city stays

Visitors to Wellington are spoiled for choice with accommodation options in the inner city. The DoubleTree by Hilton is a seven-storey, 106-room property straddling Lambton Quay and Grey Street. The nine-storey InterContinental is a luxury hotel that’s played host to Hillary Clinton and One Direction. Oaks Wellington is a 226-room, nine-storey hotel offering views of the city, Mount Victoria and Pukeahu National War Memorial Park. Plus, Naumi Studio Hotel is a bold property exploding with colour and larger-than-life floral sculptures. Read more

A five-star oasis in the CBD

The Bolton Hotel is essentially what happens when you throw tonnes of imagination at a nondescript car park. Built in 2005 on the site of The Treasury’s old car park, the 19-storey property is a five-star family-run luxurious oasis. It’s bordered by the Botanic Gardens and the Bolton Street Memorial Park. Inside, there are 137 rooms, from elegant studios to one and two-bedroom apartment-style suites. All err on the side of chic, contemporary luxury, with lots of navy and gold. Read more

The luxury cabin on the side of a cliff

A half-hour drive from Wellington city, Pipinui Point is a cliffside luxury cabin that sits on the outer edge of an enormous 1600-hectare coastal farm, with breathtaking views over to the South Island. The property features a designer kitchen next to a cosy lounge with a fire and the bedroom is home to an ultra-plush bed with a large window overlooking the coast. On a rough windy day, you can watch a storm unfold next to the fire. And then head behind the TV to push a magic button which automatically fills the cliffside bathtub. It is ready at the perfect temperature. Read more

Wairarapa's most iconic hotel

Driving along the main street of Greytown, it’s hard to miss the striking White Swan. The hotel has only been on its main street perch since 2002, but the building itself started life as an administration block at the Woburn railyard in Lower Hutt. There are seven deluxe suites located upstairs on the first floor, plus three studio rooms and two garden suites located in a separate complex at the back of the hotel overlooking a neighbourhood park. Downstairs is divided into two areas – the gastro pub, and restaurant. Both are popular among locals, so it pays to book in advance (or get in early to nab a coveted seat on the veranda). Read more

Five family-friendly hotels

Families have the best of both worlds in Wellington and Wairarapa. The capital's tightly packaged inner city makes hopping between attractions and grabbing a bite to eat incredibly easy. Along the Kāpiti Coast visitors can make the most of the outdoors, while over the hill in Wairarapa there’s ample green space for young humans to run around. There’s a surprising number of family-friendly accommodation options between the regions, making it easy to hop around with the entire clan. Read more

The glass pod for astrophiles

The secluded Kokomea PurePod is tucked away on a farm roughly an hour's drive north of Wellington. The romantic glass hideaway is PurePod's first in the North Island and you don't find out where it is until you book. With wrap-around glass walls, it is one of the best places in Aotearoa to watch stars from bed. The bed is the centrepiece of the main room and a walk into the bathroom reveals a huge glass shower with views of the sea. Push a button and the windows magically open. Read more

For more information visit wellingtonnz.com and wairarapanz.com